Another Challenge – The South Down Way
Now having returned from the most enlightening and rewarding month in Rwanda, I really want to continue supporting this amazing charity – Rwanda Aid.
So I’m cycling the South Downs Way, from Winchester to Eastbourne, over the early May Bank holiday weekend – taking just 3 days to cover the 100 miles, weather and legs permitting.
Please help me make this a double success by sponsoring me - please click onto my Just Giving page http://www.justgiving.com/martynharris and pledge a few quid, as a few British Pounds can go a long way in East Africa (some examples are provided).
Thanks a million, or hopefully a thousand!!
Martyn
Tuesday, 21 April 2009
#8
It’s the final day of Memorial Week and a full day public holiday. We’d forgotten this vital snippet and had absolutely no food for supper. We were forced to go out and re-sample the famous pork restaurant - but not before yet another altercation with the Mothers’ Union chief. This time she came here, but her curtain “plans” were just as dire and with exasperation paramount we agreed to ‘conclude’ tomorrow. The cold beer at the pork restaurant was just exactly what we needed.
Day 21 This morning was dominated by drawing plans of every possible window type, marking every hem length, tie-back distance and loop width. Every millimetre of required cloth was calculated by Martyn and mock up models of the curtain loop attachment system was made by me. A spread sheet showed a thousand different measurements and calculations and the whole explanatory mass was loaded into an envelope to deliver to the wretched Mothers’ Union. If that doesn’t make the whole damn thing clear…..
The others had gone on a trip to visit ‘the rabbit parish’. Some time ago when other parishes had chosen to spend a little money on pigs or cows, the pastor of Kansu parish had opted for rabbits as he could get more for the money – and they breed fast! The results have been extraordinary and various families have literally become self sufficient on the strength of the rabbits. They are sold for breeding and eating and because of their mega-multiplying power pay for themselves remarkably quickly.
On their return from Kansu, Liz and I went down into town on another important shopping mission. We needed to buy fourteen lengths of the madly bright materials for the rest of the forty six cushions we’d got planned, plus source some lining fabric for the inners. What a successful time we had! We were certainly Mrs. Populars in the fabric section of the market and had women literally forcing designs on and at us in a bid for us to select theirs over someone else’s. At one point I began to wonder if there might be a punch up. We didn’t peak on success in the bargaining department but did, finally, get a small reduction after pointing out, at least a hundred times, that we were buying vast quantities. As all this was conducted in our embarrassingly poor French, I suppose we should be glad we hadn’t somehow upped the price. After a remarkably short search we found some suitable lining material and the guy there was so quick to agree to our reduction that we guessed we must have underestimated the opportunity. Still, never mind, we were happy with our price.
Martyn, David and Emma had a very important meeting whilst we were buying up the market: they had to visit the Bishop, who is No. 1 most important in the wielding of power regarding so many things that the charity wants, and needs, to do. Unfortunately he doesn’t always see things in the same way as we do and obstruction isn’t too uncommon. They returned to Munezero House and the air had a hint of blue about it. A number of glasses of wine were fairly swiftly poured…..
The evening was tinged with sadness as it was ‘the Last Supper’ altogether as Henry and Aaron were off to Kigali in the morning to spend a night there before Henry flies on Thursday lunchtime. Mind you, it wasn’t all sad because as Henry was packing, he found a slab of Cadbury’s Dairy Milk that he’d ‘forgotten’ about!!! What a treat for pudding.
The others had gone on a trip to visit ‘the rabbit parish’. Some time ago when other parishes had chosen to spend a little money on pigs or cows, the pastor of Kansu parish had opted for rabbits as he could get more for the money – and they breed fast! The results have been extraordinary and various families have literally become self sufficient on the strength of the rabbits. They are sold for breeding and eating and because of their mega-multiplying power pay for themselves remarkably quickly.
Martyn, David and Emma had a very important meeting whilst we were buying up the market: they had to visit the Bishop, who is No. 1 most important in the wielding of power regarding so many things that the charity wants, and needs, to do. Unfortunately he doesn’t always see things in the same way as we do and obstruction isn’t too uncommon. They returned to Munezero House and the air had a hint of blue about it. A number of glasses of wine were fairly swiftly poured…..
In the afternoon we had a final (!) visit to Mother’s Union, a dash to buy slightly more cushion material, a race to cut the last cushions out, and packing all round. We’d been invited out to supper which seemed like a wish too far, especially when the basket-making lady arrived with a large order as we were just leaving for Obadias and supper, already an hour late. Oh yes, and after having been remarkably lucky for the whole trip with only momentary blips without water, the entire water system went off good and proper without even a drip from any tap. All plans for a final spruce up shower were thwarted, as were the hopes of removing even the surface mud from our feet and lower legs after the soggy market trip.
Early start tomorrow for Kigali, so many ends needed tying.
Day 23 I was awake before the five o’clock alarm checking the water with a vain hope. Nothing. However, when Martyn woke at five he heard a faint drip, drip and went to check: it had come on! How lucky was that? Mind you, I confess to settling for a wash only, even so as there was no hope of anything approaching hot water – but some of the other brave souls went for it, including Martyn.
By six thirty the truck was packed and a tarpaulin covered the luggage in the back. I had realised that we’d lost a padlock for one of the cases and asked Patrick, our driver, whether we’d be able to pick one up in Kigali before the airport. He said, ‘But we can get one here’! He asked me for 500 francs (about 60p) and sent Cyriac, the day guard, off to get me one! Cyriac duly returned with a small padlock in about five minutes flat. Martyn then remembered we needed a little more credit on the phone so off went Cyriac again, returning this time in about thirty seconds with the necessary card strip for the extra credit. Remember it’s six thirty in the morning and not long light!
At seven o’clock the moment came to say farewell to all our, by now really good friends, at the house. Quite an emotional wrench. A great deal of hugging took place as we all thanked and said goodbye to Cyriac and Faustin, the day and night guards, plus the wonderful Prince, manager extraordinaire. At least Patrick was coming with us so the finality wasn’t totally extreme just then.
We bounced along the now familiar pot-holed road to the forest waving to familiar sights, especially Ntendezi, the village for disabled children. Martyn is rather disappointed that he isn’t staying a couple of weeks longer to see the building complete. I, on the other hand, am secretly quite relieved that we are not to be there for the unveiling of the dreaded curtains!
Once in the forest we kept our eyes peeled for the colobus monkeys. Patrick made a wild prediction that we should see ten – and amazingly, we almost did. We saw nine, mostly in the distance along the road, disappearing into the undergrowth as we got close. But one courageous beast, all alone on the roadside, sat still until we were alongside, then made a leap onto the car. If Martyn hadn’t been pretty swift in closing up the window we’d have had an extra passenger. It was so curious and climbed all over the car, giving fabulous photo opportunities. David managed a magnificent full face portrait – must get a copy – as the monkey leered into the back window.
The strangest sensation was as we got to Butare, a town about half way to Kigali, to stop for a snack. Three and a half weeks earlier we’d stopped at the same ‘hotel’ on the way down to Kamembe from the airport. At that time we’d looked around at the dusty roads and simple shop fronts and had agreed that we were really getting out into the sticks, away from any sort of ‘civilisation’. On this return journey we almost stopped in our tracks as we gasped at the posh development of it all! It truly seemed like another – positively luxurious – world from that where we’d spent the bulk of our time in Rwanda. Proof positive that one quickly adjusts to one’s immediate environment!
We reached Kigali in plenty of time and whilst poor David and Emma continued in work mode with a visit to the Minister of Education, Liz, Martyn and I took the opportunity to go and see the Genocide Memorial Museum. Equally as sobering I suspect, but in an entirely different way. I can only say what a truly magnificent memorial to the appalling tragedy of the Genocide. A sense of peace prevailed from the moment of entry and the whole exhibition, both inside and out was so beautifully and sensitively presented. It was informative, descriptive and harrowing, but never gratuitous at all. We were all moved and shaken, yet far better informed as we departed.
Day 23 I was awake before the five o’clock alarm checking the water with a vain hope. Nothing. However, when Martyn woke at five he heard a faint drip, drip and went to check: it had come on! How lucky was that? Mind you, I confess to settling for a wash only, even so as there was no hope of anything approaching hot water – but some of the other brave souls went for it, including Martyn.
At seven o’clock the moment came to say farewell to all our, by now really good friends, at the house. Quite an emotional wrench. A great deal of hugging took place as we all thanked and said goodbye to Cyriac and Faustin, the day and night guards, plus the wonderful Prince, manager extraordinaire. At least Patrick was coming with us so the finality wasn’t totally extreme just then.
We bounced along the now familiar pot-holed road to the forest waving to familiar sights, especially Ntendezi, the village for disabled children. Martyn is rather disappointed that he isn’t staying a couple of weeks longer to see the building complete. I, on the other hand, am secretly quite relieved that we are not to be there for the unveiling of the dreaded curtains!
Once in the forest we kept our eyes peeled for the colobus monkeys. Patrick made a wild prediction that we should see ten – and amazingly, we almost did. We saw nine, mostly in the distance along the road, disappearing into the undergrowth as we got close. But one courageous beast, all alone on the roadside, sat still until we were alongside, then made a leap onto the car. If Martyn hadn’t been pretty swift in closing up the window we’d have had an extra passenger. It was so curious and climbed all over the car, giving fabulous photo opportunities. David managed a magnificent full face portrait – must get a copy – as the monkey leered into the back window.The strangest sensation was as we got to Butare, a town about half way to Kigali, to stop for a snack. Three and a half weeks earlier we’d stopped at the same ‘hotel’ on the way down to Kamembe from the airport. At that time we’d looked around at the dusty roads and simple shop fronts and had agreed that we were really getting out into the sticks, away from any sort of ‘civilisation’. On this return journey we almost stopped in our tracks as we gasped at the posh development of it all! It truly seemed like another – positively luxurious – world from that where we’d spent the bulk of our time in Rwanda. Proof positive that one quickly adjusts to one’s immediate environment!
We reached Kigali in plenty of time and whilst poor David and Emma continued in work mode with a visit to the Minister of Education, Liz, Martyn and I took the opportunity to go and see the Genocide Memorial Museum. Equally as sobering I suspect, but in an entirely different way. I can only say what a truly magnificent memorial to the appalling tragedy of the Genocide. A sense of peace prevailed from the moment of entry and the whole exhibition, both inside and out was so beautifully and sensitively presented. It was informative, descriptive and harrowing, but never gratuitous at all. We were all moved and shaken, yet far better informed as we departed.
Final stop, Kigali airport. Once again we were totally blown away by the contrast with our recent ‘home’ area. The food counter was a veritable feast of variety and excitement and the coffee lounge awash with comfortable, even elegant, leather armchairs. A final sitdown as we caught up with Aaron, there to see us off, and then the final goodbyes.That was the really hard part. But forever lightened, in true Rwandan style by the echo of David’s words as he checked that Patrick had remembered his shopping list for the following day’s six hour return journey. Of course he had: ….ten bags of foam, two piglets and a 2000 litre water tank!! Only in Rwanda….
What a brilliant place. What a fabulous trip. And what a privilege to have had such an opportunity.
Wednesday, 15 April 2009
#7
With David’s sister and niece, Liz and Emma, the ‘female touch’ arrived. After nearly three weeks struggling as the only girlie amongst four men I’d decided that trying to introduce such concepts as ‘tidiness’ and even ‘cleanliness’ to a degree, was a totally lost cause. Now I live in hope. We did have a candle on the table with supper – and not because there was a power cut: I think the girls are out in force!
Aaron had valiantly offered a day’s free labour to Ferdinand, the guy in charge of repairing the road Martyn has been working on. He left at 7 o’clock this morning, shovel and hoe in hand, possibly even whistling a merry tune: I don’t know, I wasn’t up. We’d
The evening had a hilarious, verging on the hysterical, edge as we tried to knock up a sample floor cushion using a sewing machine that none of us could master – or even begin to treadle with any fluency – although David did finally manage two stitches in a row. The cushions remain pinned.
Although the day started quite pleasantly weather-wise, it deteriorated dramatically once we got to Nkombo and we were wading through mud I suspect too sticky to imagine. The more we waded the heavier our shoes became until it became difficult to lift our feet. The children certainly had the last laugh on this occasion being far less inhibited by their bare feet than we were in our ‘sensible’ walking shoes.
We reached the boat finally, and once in motion settled down to a truly English picnic, in the pouring rain, of course. Soggy sandwiches, even hard boiled eggs. But then, amid the doom and gloom, a vibrant pink box seemed to ascend, almost, from Emma’s bag, containing two complete layers of chocolate eggs! We were all momentarily transfixed in ecstasy before diving in rather frenziedly, without the finesse my mother tried to teach me.
Supper was significantly enhanced by our second Easter treat of mini lemon cupcakes decorated with crunchy chocolate eggs. A small African fabric pouch each, filled with Thorntons chocolate egglets, completed the excitement for the day. But I suspect that that small sample of chocolate nectar could be the ruin of any sort of ‘calm’ acceptance of deprivation….
Supper was significantly enhanced by our second Easter treat of mini lemon cupcakes decorated with crunchy chocolate eggs. A small African fabric pouch each, filled with Thorntons chocolate egglets, completed the excitement for the day. But I suspect that that small sample of chocolate nectar could be the ruin of any sort of ‘calm’ acceptance of deprivation….
Tuesday, 14 April 2009
#6
It was very noticeable that Kamembe, which is usually a town in constant sway, bustling and busy, was truly a ghost town today.
Whilst attempting not to feel too insensitive, I settled down to sleep with one overpowering wish – which was not, altogether altruistic I confess: I was praying that David would be feeling significantly better, if not fully recovered, so that at least not both Aaron and Henry would drive up to Kigale with him – and preferably not even Aaron. My ulterior – and very selfish I admit - motive was, of course, not to have to take their place in an extra teaching session.
Day 15 Joy was indeed mine when David was up looking remarkably better. He proved how good he was feeling when he announced that he would be eating some breakfast! Poor guy had starved for days with a hideously inflamed throat. Martyn and I waved him off to Kigale with strict instructions to ‘keep up the fluids’, and Aaron and Henry off to Mururu school, me with a bit of a smug grin on my face. Old bat.
From the farm to the dispensary, a part of Rwanda Aid’s recipients as yet unknown to us. A very clued up nurse called Emilienne talked us through the system and we left feeling most relieved to have seen a positive side to the availability of medicines here that we weren’t expecting. I know that th
Near disaster struck when Martyn and I popped down into town on a red wine mission, having run out a couple of days ago, only to find the shop shut already, as part of the early closing for Memorial week. We managed to struggle on, having broken the news to the boys and ended up having a ‘gourmet’ meal, with our first real pudding - Aaron knocked up some amazing banana fritters – in spite of such trauma.
Day 16 Evaluation day at the school. Aaron, Henry and I went as lambs to the slaughter – though fortunately people were mainly kind – although they did emphasise how much they had wished for more grammar. Not something us native speakers are too hot on it has to be said – but not to them!
From Mururu to Remera school, miles out into the sticks, along a road barely worthy of the title – but with views beyond superlative. I was welcomed so warmly by the heads of both the Primary and Secondary schools, and treated to a Fanta, the height of entertainment here. The school, as so many others, is poorly resourced, desperate for new classrooms to accommodate the new 9 Year Schooling programme (previously only six) and pretty depressingly gloomy inside, but there was a positive atmosphere and friendly staff. Both the two heads have a two hour walk each way to school, and earn US$26 per month. It rather makes me reassess the teachers’ lot elsewhere.
I‘m slowly getting my ‘report’ typed up, constantly wrestling with the finer points of Word going nearly demented when it
Sunday, 12 April 2009
#5
Martyn and I walked up to the farm on the kind of pretext of checking the road along the way, but actually a new calf had been born yesterday and we were keen to meet her and pay our respects. She was delightful, though her poor mother was mooing soulfully in the next pen.
After lunch there was a major shop to be done. We have decided to hold a barbecue for various employees and their families. The original plan was for next Sunday but on chatting to one of the potential guests, Patrick, our driver – and one of the nicest people one could ever meet – we realised that would not be appropriate: the week ahead is ‘Genocide Memorial Week’, with the particular memorial day being on Tuesday. It is a public holiday, but the rest of the week is half day holidays and intended for families and friends to get together, remember and consider how to ensure it is never repeated. As Sunday is in this ‘sensitive’ week, it seemed an inappropriate time to hold gaiety and parties. So we made the decision to hold the barbecue this Sunday instead, giving us minimal planning time. But we’d drawn up a mammoth list, had called on the help of both Francoise, the cook who knows where to buy what, and Patrick, for translation, and together the assembled masses went off to hit Kamembe. Amazingly everything on the list - apart from condensed milk (so no banofee, boo! hoo!) – was found. Patrick who has been given the task of coming up with some sort of barbecue is confident in his ability, and the charcoal has now been purchased. Tomorrow will be a busy morning as we are catering for over twenty.
Overall a most successful afternoon.
The evening was dominated by the fact that we were all absolutely shattered. Not even enough energy for a game of cards.
I’m actually in absolute awe of these teachers we are helping. Some of them are in their sixties so what a task suddenly to have to perfect another language – they already speak fluent French and Kinyarwandan – in order to keep their job, in many cases. We don’t know how lucky we are.
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